I recently plantes some bonsai trees. How long does it take for them to reach their normal height. One was a Siberian Elm, the other a Japanese Black Maple.|||Of course, "normal" covers a wide range of ideas. It will reach the height you desire by trimming. Patience is key. You may want to look at the photos and also the Bonsai Care page of my site:
http://www.american-bonsai.com The height is shown in each of my bonsai descriptions.|||By normal do you mean 40 feet? In order to keep a tree small, it must be pruned and trained, any bonsai left on it's own will try to reach its full size--the size the tree would normally be, usually growing at one to six feet a year under good conditions.|||In Bonsai you control the growth of the tree. With prunning, trimming the roots, and training the branches with wire to take a specific shape. With proper care the tree will live as long or longer than its natural counterpart. Many of these trees live several hundred years.
Saturday, January 7, 2012
How can I ship fresh Bonsai Materials from Manila to Puerto Rico?
How can I ship fresh Bonsai Materials from Manila to Puerto Rico? Materials are without soil. Where I should talk about it? Is it really possible to send some Small Bonsai materials to other country?|||each country has its laws about products such as yours, contact the local gov/agency for yours and their info on shipping.
Bonsai expert, anyone? We have a dying bonsai and want to know what we can do to revive it??
I purchased a bonsai tree for my hubby last christmas, and it was doing really well. Now it is dying, the leaves have all fallen off, and it just looks sad. We were watering it with a spray bottle, could it be that the chlorine, etc. didn't get a chance to evaporate since it was bottled?
Any advice would be appreciated!!|||You're getting some strange advice. First, where are you keeping it? Chinese elms are one of the few species of trees that can be kept indoors OR outdoors. If you're keeping it indoors, it should only lose about 20% of its leaves during fall and winter. If you keep it outdoors, it will lose about 80% of its leaves during that time. Another point.....spraying it is OK for the leaves, but that won't give it enough water in the soil. You have to soak it thoroughly when watering. If you email me at:
wchoat@american-bonsai.com , I'll send you the care instructions that the seller should have given you when you bought it. You may also want to look at the Bonsai Care page of my site:
http://www.american-bonsai.com . It is wise to only buy a bonsai from the person who planted it.|||NOTHING ITS DEAD!|||Although its a chinese elm it is Fall in Oregon so it will lose its leaves. Its not dead its just resting|||It wants to go outside. Bonsai are cold-weather creatures. Put it where it won't get nibbled on and let it be one with nature for the winter. If it's going to make it, that's the best way at this point. Please don't laugh, but, it would appreciate daily verbal visits from you with no touching stuff while it's outdoors. If you know of someone with numerous outdoor bonsai, inquire about the possibility of placing your bonsai in their midsts for encouragement and whatever they do to balance each other out like they can. Then, re-think the whole thing about nurturing a bonsai. They are not grateful lifeforms. They take and take and take and just get haughtier every year until you resent it.|||Only thing you can do is trim back and add growth hormone in garden center. Chlorine is bad for it but did not kill it. The real Bonsai lives many years. Sounds like you do not water right. You need to water to bottom of pot, then let dry out and water again. Try rejuvenating by putting outside too. it sounds like you shocked it since all leaves fell off. If they were hanging then the plant is dead. Could be bugs too or fungus, even maybe nematodes. They require little care if in right enviroment if just trimmed and slow release fert like osmacote 10-10-10.
Any advice would be appreciated!!|||You're getting some strange advice. First, where are you keeping it? Chinese elms are one of the few species of trees that can be kept indoors OR outdoors. If you're keeping it indoors, it should only lose about 20% of its leaves during fall and winter. If you keep it outdoors, it will lose about 80% of its leaves during that time. Another point.....spraying it is OK for the leaves, but that won't give it enough water in the soil. You have to soak it thoroughly when watering. If you email me at:
wchoat@american-bonsai.com , I'll send you the care instructions that the seller should have given you when you bought it. You may also want to look at the Bonsai Care page of my site:
http://www.american-bonsai.com . It is wise to only buy a bonsai from the person who planted it.|||NOTHING ITS DEAD!|||Although its a chinese elm it is Fall in Oregon so it will lose its leaves. Its not dead its just resting|||It wants to go outside. Bonsai are cold-weather creatures. Put it where it won't get nibbled on and let it be one with nature for the winter. If it's going to make it, that's the best way at this point. Please don't laugh, but, it would appreciate daily verbal visits from you with no touching stuff while it's outdoors. If you know of someone with numerous outdoor bonsai, inquire about the possibility of placing your bonsai in their midsts for encouragement and whatever they do to balance each other out like they can. Then, re-think the whole thing about nurturing a bonsai. They are not grateful lifeforms. They take and take and take and just get haughtier every year until you resent it.|||Only thing you can do is trim back and add growth hormone in garden center. Chlorine is bad for it but did not kill it. The real Bonsai lives many years. Sounds like you do not water right. You need to water to bottom of pot, then let dry out and water again. Try rejuvenating by putting outside too. it sounds like you shocked it since all leaves fell off. If they were hanging then the plant is dead. Could be bugs too or fungus, even maybe nematodes. They require little care if in right enviroment if just trimmed and slow release fert like osmacote 10-10-10.
What is the best plant food for bonsai trees?
I need info about how to care for a bonsai tree. It is about 12 inches tall at this time. What and when should I feed it and when should I transfer to a larger container?|||There are many ways to take care of bonsai trees, but first we need to know the species of the tree. Thousands of species of trees are made into bonsai. If you can send me a photo at
wchoat@american-bonsai.com so I can help you with聽the care. If you don't have a way to send a photo, describe the foliage. If you need more information about bonsai, check my Care page on
www.american-bonsai.com
wchoat@american-bonsai.com so I can help you with聽the care. If you don't have a way to send a photo, describe the foliage. If you need more information about bonsai, check my Care page on
www.american-bonsai.com
Can you grow a bonsai tree from another bonsai?
ok i have a bonsai tree but i would like to make a second one. its a ficus and i have had it for almost a year now so its about 4 years old but i dont know if it is possible to make a second tree with it. if you could help then please do. thanks!|||You can propagate trees into bonsais either from standard or previously bonsaid trees, though you'll likely have more vegetative growth from a plant like a Ficus that is not previously bonsaid. That said, many Ficus are fairly easy to propagate, usually I find the air layering technique to be the most succesful. Choose a reasonably mature piece of stem, either the previous year's growth, or current years that's a few months old. This involves making a cut an inch or so long on part of the stem, just lifting up some of the surface bark - it doesn't need to be totally removed from the plant, though can be lifted, using something to keep it from sealing back up, like a little match stalk etc. You then start surrounding this part of the stem with something like sphagnum moss, and enclosing this by using some string tied around it. Adding some hormone rooting gel or powder will encourage rooting, before you cover it with moss.
Keep the sphagnum moist, enclosing within a tied down pieve of plastic, and you should start to see roots forming into it, from the Ficus stem. If the moss is too wet, it can cause some rotting, so beware of this.
When there is a good root system that's formed, you can cut this piece of your plant away from the parent, using a sterilised knife, just below the area that is wanted, and immediately above your parent plant's leaf buds, where it will subsequently grow shoots from.
Keep your new cutting enclosed in a polythene/plastic cover, to help preserve humidity levels, and plant into a well draining potting soil. Once more fully rooted, it can be fertilised, and managed as you would your other bonsai.
Otherwise you can propagate Ficus from seeds, produced by plants that flower and are pollinated - your current plant may not be at this stage at its current age. It doesn't matter if the seed comes from a currently bonsaid plant or not, its genetic material will be the same, and it will grow according to the prevailing conditions.
Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob|||are you crazy?!?!
do you have any idea what that would do?!
lol|||Its still a tree. But if it doesn't actually bear any fruit, then its seed cannot be planted. So it depends if it does that or not. I would guess no.|||The genus 'Ficus' can be propagated by seed, cutting or air layering. Some species are more receptive to specific types of propagation.|||no way|||Technically, you can start a new plant but it won't be a bonsai until the new plant has been miniaturized.
Genetically, it's a standard plant when it is propagated. It's like people who have had their teeth straightened. Their children still have the genes for crooked teeth.|||Yes, you can propagate your ficus tree. The level of difficulty ranges from "easy" to "will grow like weeds" depending on the variety of ficus you have.
Here is the simplest method - I use it regularly with good success. You don't need any special equipment, soil or rooting hormones for this method.
1. Pick a branch you want to become the new tree. It should be a healthy, mature branch. Not this years growth. You can use any part of the branch, you don't need to cut it off all the way back at the trunk. It needs to be at least a few inches long so you can handle it.
2. Cut off the branch with clean (use alcohol) sharp scissors or pruners.
3. Remove about half the leaves on the branch. Leave the top leaves - take off the lower leaves to halfway up.
4. Put you cutting in a glass container (clean) of water. Don't have any of the remaining leaves in the water - just the stem. Use rainwater if you have chemically treated tap water. Keep the container filled to this level. Keep it in a bright location - but not full sun.
5. Within a few weeks - could be shorter or longer, lots of variables here - you'll see roots developing in the water.
6. IMPORTANT - It's time to move the plant to soil once the roots get going. "Water roots" will change into "soil roots" for only a short time, while they are new. If you continue to leave the roots grow in the water, they may have difficulty changing over to soil.
7. Pot your cutting up in bonsai soil if you can - it will promote better root growth. Keep the new cutting very well watered for another week and mist the leaves often. It's been growing in water and needs to get used to being in soil.
8. Gradually cut back on the water and misting until it is back to being watered like a regular ficus.
You now have another tree to start training. Leave it alone for a while, don't do any pruning or wire training until well after you see signs of growth on the cutting.
It's a good idea to do more than one cutting at a time. There is always the possibility of failure with all propagation.
Keep the sphagnum moist, enclosing within a tied down pieve of plastic, and you should start to see roots forming into it, from the Ficus stem. If the moss is too wet, it can cause some rotting, so beware of this.
When there is a good root system that's formed, you can cut this piece of your plant away from the parent, using a sterilised knife, just below the area that is wanted, and immediately above your parent plant's leaf buds, where it will subsequently grow shoots from.
Keep your new cutting enclosed in a polythene/plastic cover, to help preserve humidity levels, and plant into a well draining potting soil. Once more fully rooted, it can be fertilised, and managed as you would your other bonsai.
Otherwise you can propagate Ficus from seeds, produced by plants that flower and are pollinated - your current plant may not be at this stage at its current age. It doesn't matter if the seed comes from a currently bonsaid plant or not, its genetic material will be the same, and it will grow according to the prevailing conditions.
Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob|||are you crazy?!?!
do you have any idea what that would do?!
lol|||Its still a tree. But if it doesn't actually bear any fruit, then its seed cannot be planted. So it depends if it does that or not. I would guess no.|||The genus 'Ficus' can be propagated by seed, cutting or air layering. Some species are more receptive to specific types of propagation.|||no way|||Technically, you can start a new plant but it won't be a bonsai until the new plant has been miniaturized.
Genetically, it's a standard plant when it is propagated. It's like people who have had their teeth straightened. Their children still have the genes for crooked teeth.|||Yes, you can propagate your ficus tree. The level of difficulty ranges from "easy" to "will grow like weeds" depending on the variety of ficus you have.
Here is the simplest method - I use it regularly with good success. You don't need any special equipment, soil or rooting hormones for this method.
1. Pick a branch you want to become the new tree. It should be a healthy, mature branch. Not this years growth. You can use any part of the branch, you don't need to cut it off all the way back at the trunk. It needs to be at least a few inches long so you can handle it.
2. Cut off the branch with clean (use alcohol) sharp scissors or pruners.
3. Remove about half the leaves on the branch. Leave the top leaves - take off the lower leaves to halfway up.
4. Put you cutting in a glass container (clean) of water. Don't have any of the remaining leaves in the water - just the stem. Use rainwater if you have chemically treated tap water. Keep the container filled to this level. Keep it in a bright location - but not full sun.
5. Within a few weeks - could be shorter or longer, lots of variables here - you'll see roots developing in the water.
6. IMPORTANT - It's time to move the plant to soil once the roots get going. "Water roots" will change into "soil roots" for only a short time, while they are new. If you continue to leave the roots grow in the water, they may have difficulty changing over to soil.
7. Pot your cutting up in bonsai soil if you can - it will promote better root growth. Keep the new cutting very well watered for another week and mist the leaves often. It's been growing in water and needs to get used to being in soil.
8. Gradually cut back on the water and misting until it is back to being watered like a regular ficus.
You now have another tree to start training. Leave it alone for a while, don't do any pruning or wire training until well after you see signs of growth on the cutting.
It's a good idea to do more than one cutting at a time. There is always the possibility of failure with all propagation.
Where can I find bonsai soil locally?
I bought a ficus bonsai and I need to repot it in a bonsai pot but I am not sure where to find the soil other than ordering it online. Can anyone help? Are there any major chain stores that you think would carry this or is it my best bet to just try a nursery?|||Try finding in local Plant nurseries|||from an article here--%26gt; http://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics/Basicsca鈥?/a>
Akadama, Turface and Seramis are among the most popular high quality (inorganic) soil components available in which to plant your bonsai. Unfortunately, they can be difficult to source and are expensive particularly if you have many large trees to repot, have to buy by mail order or just require a small quantity for a small number of trees.
These soil components are all (basically) clay granules that have been fired/heated to create small pellets or granules that are water retentive, extremely well draining and are stable, that is they will not breakdown over the course of the year.
Some cat litter products are exactly this; fired clay granules. Originally, a knowledgeable fellow enthusiast who has been using it as a bonsai soil for the past decade, introduced me to using clay granules intended as cat litter a number of years ago. I have been planting all of my bonsai in this particular brand of catlitter for a number of years now and it has proved to be an excellent material that I would now comfortably recommend as being superior to Akadama and Seramis.
As time has gone on since first writing this article around 2004, I have since heard from many enthusiasts who have switched to Tescos Low Dust Lightweight and a number of other similar (diatomaceous earth/diatomite) products with great success.
Very easily available in the UK, I use an own-brand product available from 'Tescos' called 'Low Dust Lightweight Catlitter' (previously known as 'Premium Lightweight'). There are other brands that make suitable bonsai soil (see the updates at the foot of the page) but this is the only one I have direct experience of and can therefore personally recommend.
I use this product for my all of my bonsai, with cuttings and air layers and even newly collected yamadori (collected trees) all to good effect.|||You can buy it from...
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?u鈥?/a>
I hope this was helpful for you. Good Luck!|||i have a bonsai plant ... the plant comes with the soil and the pot (duh! otherwise it would be dead by now) ... i water them everyday ... why not try eBay?
Akadama, Turface and Seramis are among the most popular high quality (inorganic) soil components available in which to plant your bonsai. Unfortunately, they can be difficult to source and are expensive particularly if you have many large trees to repot, have to buy by mail order or just require a small quantity for a small number of trees.
These soil components are all (basically) clay granules that have been fired/heated to create small pellets or granules that are water retentive, extremely well draining and are stable, that is they will not breakdown over the course of the year.
Some cat litter products are exactly this; fired clay granules. Originally, a knowledgeable fellow enthusiast who has been using it as a bonsai soil for the past decade, introduced me to using clay granules intended as cat litter a number of years ago. I have been planting all of my bonsai in this particular brand of catlitter for a number of years now and it has proved to be an excellent material that I would now comfortably recommend as being superior to Akadama and Seramis.
As time has gone on since first writing this article around 2004, I have since heard from many enthusiasts who have switched to Tescos Low Dust Lightweight and a number of other similar (diatomaceous earth/diatomite) products with great success.
Very easily available in the UK, I use an own-brand product available from 'Tescos' called 'Low Dust Lightweight Catlitter' (previously known as 'Premium Lightweight'). There are other brands that make suitable bonsai soil (see the updates at the foot of the page) but this is the only one I have direct experience of and can therefore personally recommend.
I use this product for my all of my bonsai, with cuttings and air layers and even newly collected yamadori (collected trees) all to good effect.|||You can buy it from...
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?u鈥?/a>
I hope this was helpful for you. Good Luck!|||i have a bonsai plant ... the plant comes with the soil and the pot (duh! otherwise it would be dead by now) ... i water them everyday ... why not try eBay?
Can my chinese juniper bonsai be grown inside?
I just got a bonsai that I think is a chinese juniper....it just says starter bonsai on the side of the pot.聽 Ive been reading online and have found that I should not grow it inside and that it is ok to grow it inside, which is it.|||It is an OUTDOOR tree, and must not be kept in your house for more than 2 hours a MONTH. It must have a cold winter so it can go dormant. If you would like to send an email to me at:
wchoat@american-bonsai.com , I'll be glad to send you care instructions that the seller should have given you. You may also want to look at the junipers on my site:
http://www.american-bonsai.com
wchoat@american-bonsai.com , I'll be glad to send you care instructions that the seller should have given you. You may also want to look at the junipers on my site:
http://www.american-bonsai.com
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